And so the home straight – we’re on board the ferry, we’ve
just left Ouistreham harbour near Caen in France, and in a few hours we’ll
arrive in England, will drive once more on the left for the short journey from
Portsmouth to Winchester and will, to all intents and purposes, be home. At
least, for a night – tomorrow I set off again with the caravan to Lawn Cottage
in preparation for Dad’s funeral on Thursday. Frances, George and Charlie will
join me later in the week, so we’ll be together again in the caravan for a few
nights before taking it back from whence we bought it, taking advantage of
their buy back scheme. But more of all that later.
I last reported a week ago on a rainy morning in
Challons-en-Champagne, eagerly awaiting the afternoon’s planned trip to the
champagne houses of Epernay and Reims. We drove the twenty or so kilometres
along the arrow-straight Roman roads of the otherwise pretty featureless
landscape, denuded of hedgerows, only occasional copses to shorten the distant
horizon. No sign of vineyards, no ripening sun, just hectare after euro-hectare
of what appeared to be turnips, the harvest in full swing with giant mounds of
recently unearthed produce by the roadside. A small rise on the horizon became
the hills of Epernay as we drew close – and then we were driving through the
town, markedly different to those of the previous day, with the ostentatiously
affluent and revered champagne houses lining the principal road through the
town. On advice from the tourist information office, we visited Mercier – not
renowned as the best champagne, but as the best tour, particularly for
families. After a warm reception in the impressive foyer, we descended by lift
into les caves below for a guided ‘train’ ride through the 36 kms of tunnels
through the chalk, all dug by hand in the late 19th century. It was
fascinating, illuminating, and desperately tempting as we passed thousands upon
thousands of bottles of champagne at various stages of maturation. Finally we
were released to the tasting room above where we were able to sample some of
the merchandise – most satisfactory!
Mission accomplished, we wandered a little way through the
town before deciding that the weather and our enthusiasm weren’t up to visiting
Reims, and so headed back to Challons. We had thought we might eat out, but a
quick visit to Carrefour for supplies on the way home dissuaded us. In fact, it
turned out to be a bit more of an epic, as we discovered visits to French
supermarkets tend to be. If the Italians have brought art and passion to
supermarkets, the Germans ruthless efficiency, the Scandinavians Ikea-like ‘customer
journeys’ – well, the French have turned supermarket shopping into an extreme
sport! So vast are the Carrefours that they have shop assistants on roller
skates, whizzing along the aisles and past the checkouts with typical gallic
style. And such is the range of food, fresh, packaged, preserved that just
choosing becomes an ordeal (albeit a rather pleasant one). In the end, we
couldn’t resist the temptation of the Boeuf Bourginnion gently simmering behind
the display counter – and after a tediously long queue (this part they really
haven’t cracked!) we headed back to the caravan, opened a bottle of red and
settled down to a simply excellent dinner. Why can’t it always be that simple?
On Wednesday, with George, Charlie and me feeling a little
under the weather with the onset of colds, we packed up and headed towards
Paris, again foregoing the Autoroutes in favour of the more scenic N roads. Our
target campsite was in Maisons Laffites, on the Seine in the west of Paris
involved diving right into the afternoon melee of La Peripherique – no quarter
asked, none given as the seemingly suicidal drivers and moto riders ducked,
dived and squeezed past the lumbering Volvo and caravan. Still, as Dad had
pointed out before we set off, one of the great advantages of being slow is
that you always have clear road ahead – sage advice! We cruised through without
getting too ruffled, and after a final few narrow lanes through the suburbs,
emerged unscathed at our site. And what a site – literally on the banks of the
Seine, with its vast cargo barges slipping uncannily-serenely by every few
minutes. The site itself was ok – large enough grassy pitches with the now
customary hedges and many large poplar trees looking beautiful in the autumn
sun. Pity the ‘facilities’ didn’t quite meet the same standard – no lavatory
paper is one thing – but no lavatory seats? We made camp, put the kid’s tent up
to give us all a bit more space for a couple of nights, and had an early night
(again thanks to Carrefore – this time their delicious and hot Tartiflette!)
We made an early start on Thursday and, along with the
long-suffering Parisian commuters who looked on our travellers’ attire of
walking boots, scruffy clothes and back-packs with some disdain, headed into
Paris on the train and metro. We headed straight to Le Musee de Louvre to buy
tickets and avoid later queues, then hopped back on the Metro to the Champs Elysee
– it’s a magnificent boulevard with its crowning Arc de Triumph – more so now
than when I visited thirteen years ago. Having received an impromptu warning of
pick-pockets playing tricks on tourists from a passer-by who heard our English
accents, we marched off down more Parisian boulevards towards the Eiffel Tower.
What an incredible spectacle it still
remains – a testament to the engineering skills and the ambition of its time,
as strong and imposing and yet graceful and elegant now as it must have been to
its first visitors. We’d pre-booked tickets (well worthwhile to avoid what
looked like a long queue) and so were able to head straight to the summit, the
view from which is breath-taking – an uninterrupted view across the otherwise
relatively low-rise and rather flat city, but with so much white marble and the
occasional gilt statue and dome it all positively glistens far beneath one’s
feat. Incredible that it was created for, and created a sensation at the world
fair in the 1880s, and is still one of the world’s most impressive tourist
attractions over 100 years later. George and Charlie were captivated,
marvelling at the magnificent view, the ant-like cars and people below,
morbidly discussing the perils of falling from such a great height, wondering
what would happen to the hapless spectators below if Charlie dropped her
tangerine on them – they were even excited by the scale of the engineering
(such as the 2.5 million hot rivets used in its construction!).
After the tower, we needed lunch and a bit of a rest, so
headed to Les Jardins de Tuilierres. We sat in the comfortable looking chairs
provided to eat, after which George and Charlie rented and played with model
sailing yachts on the pond, while I pulled my hood up, my hat down, my
sunglasses on, closed my eyes and had a well-earned snooze. The chair proved
incompatible with a protracted nap (never judge a book by its cover!), so once
the yachts had been returned to harbour we made our way into the adjacent Louvre
for our long awaited visit to the Mona Lisa. The museum faces the same issue
that we’d encountered at the Uffizi in Florence – it’s a victim of its own
success. Such is its popularity and the fame of its collections that it is
literally thronging with people, craning their necks to catch a glimpse of this
amazing work of renaissance art or that piece of Greek or Roman sculpture. The
net effect is that it’s a bit of an anti-climax, the headline act, Mona Lisa in
particular. Standing to view the most famous of DaVinci’s work in crowds five
or six deep and 10 or 20 across, it’s almost impossible to form an emotional
attachment to it or to many of the other works we saw in the museum. Pity –
because that smile really is enigmatic!
From the Louvre, we made a quick bolt across the river to
Notre Dame, transformed through cleaning from the ominous, menacing black I
remember from my last visit to a gleaming bright white. But time was tight and
we were on a mission, so didn’t dwell or go into the cathedral, Instead, we
retraced our steps to Hotel de Ville, and then on to the metro again to head
over to Mont Martre and Sacrre Couer. We had planned to get a portrait drawn of
George and Charlie by one of the street artists for which this district is
famous, but it proved very expensive, and it was getting late. Much of the
bohemian charm of the churchyard overlooking Paris and the adjacent streets and
market seems to have evaporated, lost to the somewhat aggressive efforts of the
many itinerant street traders, and the excessively commercial shops and
restaurants – it’s a pity as this was the artistic soul of the city.
Wearily we headed back to the metro and on to Maisons
Lafitte – we’d packed an enormous amount into a day. By the time we got back to
the caravan, George was understandably complaining of shin splints, a very
uncomfortable leg injury, and Charlie’s cold had deteriorated into a nasty
chest infection (bad news as she’s asthmatic). Over dinner we discussed the
options for the following day, Friday. For some time now we’d been planning to
pay a surprise visit to Disneyland Paris – while it was far from in-keeping
with the rest of our travels, we felt it would be a fun climax to an amazing
adventure. As we revealed our plans, the injuries and ailments were forgotten
and the children went to bed brimming with excitement.
So, another early start on Friday, and back on the trains,
this time from one end of the line to the other as we headed out of Paris to
Disneyland. We arrived to the spectacle
we’d been anticipating – all saccharin and tinsel, but nevertheless pretty and
efficient. We paid the walloping entry fee, wolfed down some snacks under the
warning signs that picnicking was prohibited within, and, girding our loins,
headed into the throng. I don’t intend to give a detailed account of it here –
those of you who are interested have no doubt already been, and those who
aren’t, well, you aren’t interested are you? Suffice to say that this is the
perfect day out if you enjoy standing in endless queues waiting to have the
living daylights scared out of you! Or if you have so much money and such poor
taste that you simply have to dress up in Mickey Mouse ears and an Alice in
Wonderland dress while scoffing over-priced pizzas or burgers. Sadly, we
weren’t really in either category – but compared to a day’s kayaking on a fjord
with Asbjorn, or learning the complex history of Prague and its many
defenestrations with Jacob, it was simply not a match. We had a couple of
fantastic rides on rollercoasters and flumes brought to life with incredible
theatre and effects. But we had a couple of frustrating hours waiting in line
for rides that went out of action as we got close to the front of the queue –
and once you lose time in this place, with average queues for rides over
45mins, you’ve really lost out on a big chunk of the day. George loved the
rides that he did manage to get on, as did Frances and I – but we left feeling
that it was a bit of an anti-climax, even a let-down. Charlie, however, left feeling plain ill. We’d
rented a child-sized stroller in the afternoon to push her around as she was
visibly deteriorating. But by the time we got home, her cold had become a chest
infection and her asthma was causing her real difficulties.
We had planned to have a leisurely morning and then visit
Versailles in the afternoon – but when we woke and tested Charlie’s breathing
peak flow, it had fallen well below 50% of her normal capacity. Frances made
enquiries at the campsite reception about seeing a local GP, but after a few phone
calls, it was decided that she’d need to visit a hospital – and that required
an ambulance. As we prepared to settle down for our morning croissant we heard
the sirens in the distance, and within a few minutes there were blue flashing
lights right outside the caravan. By extraordinary fortune one of the three
on-board paramedics was an English guy who’d grown up in Paris – the only
bilingual on the force he told me. After a few questions and phone calls,
Charlie was bundled into the ambulance with Frances by her side and whisked off
to hospital for treatment. George and I settled in for a pleasantly quiet wait
at the caravan, reading our books and watching the barges glide past on the
Seine. A couple of hours later, we received the message to collect the girls.
They’d had an efficient and comfortable experience, with the nebuliser and
steroids having the desired effect of
freeing up Charlie’s airways and the prescription arming her to effect a speedy
recovery. With the day a write-off, George and Charlie settled in to watch a
film, while Frances and I wandered into the charming suburb of Maisons Lafitte
for a mooch around and a quiet drink.
We packed up this morning in reasonable time, helped by the
changing clocks, and left the campsite, one of the last to do so as it closes
down for the winter this weekend. With slightly heavy hearts we made our way
towards the coast, stopping at a supermarket to buy supplies, then driving
through the beach resorts at Ouisterham, scene of the Normandy D-Day landings,
before forming up in the queue to board the ferry. We’ll arrive late this
evening in the UK, and will drive to Frances’ parents John and Susie for the
night. We’ll unpack a bit in the morning, before I head off to Lawn Cottage. We
now have about three weeks in the UK before we depart for Australia via Hong
Kong, to begin the next exciting chapter in our lives.
There are so many thoughts about completion of the trip –
things and places we’ve explored and learned about, people we’ve met and those
who we haven’t but have observed, the wonderful things we’ve experienced. I
think these will be worthy of a separate entry in due course.
Until then….bye for now.